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Picture on top: PYUA | German Ecodesign Award
For anybody who likes to enjoy nature not only when the sun is out, reliable clothing for outdoors is mandatory. It has to keep up with outdoor conditions. But often, this kind of outdoor wear is manufactured in a way that is not in line with the best interests of that same, much loved nature. PYUA attempts to resolve this contradiction.
PYUA is the first brand to produce functional clothing that is made from recycled materials only, clothing that can be recycled entirely within a closed cycle. The concept behind this production is Cradle to Cradle, a principle inspired by nature’s circularity and seeking to function as a circular economy. The word PYUA means ‘pure’ in Japanese – a nice metaphor for the clothing brand.
One of the company’s mottos is “Minimize your tracks”.
It refers not only to actual footprints, but also to the impact that personal decisions can have, such as choosing to provide outdoor wear and not harming nature at the same time. It all started with a ski jacket. In 2008, Timo Perschke set out on a search for innovative fabrics.
... “It was clear to me right from the start that the future belongs to recycled materials. The aspect of sustainability is becoming increasingly important to our customers, which helped our agenda. Then again, a mind shift is long overdue.” ...
But if this is so obvious, why don't all producers of outdoor clothing change to using, for example, recycled polyester? As Timo Perschke answers:
... “Primarily, this has nothing to do with the actual material properties. Over the years, certain structures, developments and narratives have been established through advertising. Some businesses can’t and don’t want to change them. And additionally, courage and support are needed to succeed in changing these sometimes entrenched structures.”...
Timo Perschke discovered a new, waterproof and breathable laminate (a multi-functional fabric), which from his point of view has the potential to become an alternative to Gore-Tex and other materials affecting the environment. Nobody seemed to think so apart from him, which is why he founded the Kiel-based Pyua Protection GmbH.
The concept: outdoor clothing made of recycled materials, which again can be fully recycled, including components such as zippers or buttons.
Pursuing this kind of idea always involves a risk. No one can predict whether it's going to work out. Being persuasive, making investments and taking risks are mandatory.
All products are designed using mono-fraction materials, the outer fabric, membrane, backing and lining fabric are all made of polyester. Downs are deliberately not used for the lining, as the production is linked to animal welfare concerns. All materials are certified, some of which are in-house developments. PYUA designs and develops in a way that differs from conventional methods: First, all necessary materials and components are selected on the basis of strict ecological criteria, then the products are designed. To close the material cycle, PYUA finally takes back their clothes. They are then sold to the partner company Wenkhaus, where the products are recycled professionally.
picture: PYUA | German Ecodesign Award
... “The recycling system is working, though as of today, only small quantities are recycled. We have only been on the market for ten years and we didn't start out with a huge production volume. In addition, we use durable material, our clothes have a long lifespan. The average ski jacket in this country is only thrown away after 17 years of use. We also offer to hand the used clothes in with our dealers. For this purpose, small boxes are placed in the shops. However, our experience is that hardly anyone takes their old clothes with them when they go out shopping.”...
Meanwhile, PYUA exports to eight countries and sells around 14,000 products annually. But even recycled plastic stays plastic in the end. Perschke:
... “Yes, we are part of the micro plastic problematic. But at least we don't bring new plastic into the world. And we are the only ones consequently following the cradle-to-cradle approach along with the recycling system. All our products are 100 percent reusable. This goes for ski underwear as well as insulation material.” ...
Picture: PYUA | German Ecodesign Award
The clothes are affordable and not intended as lifestyle products. In the meantime, eight different materials for the production of outdoor clothing have been either discovered or developed by the company itself. The Fair-Wear-Foundation gave PYUA 75 out of 100 possible points. In 2013 the company was awarded the German Ecodesign Award.
... “This prize means a lot to us. There is always an acknowledging aspect when receiving an award. It shows that we’re not the only ones convinced that what we are doing is right, and that others also support and value our philosophy. We shouldn't get too comfortable though, and an award of this kind is certainly very motivating.” ...
PYUA has grown steadily since it has been founded, moving to larger premises in Kiel in early 2018. In September 2018, the Munich-based investment company “Spin Capital” took over 90 percent of the shares. Timo Perschke remains managing director and has a partner at his side with Stefan Mohr, the managing director of “Spin Capital”. Together they want to expand the sales territory and further develop the year-round brand, according to the trade press.
WHO AND WHAT?
Pyua Protection GmbH was founded in 2008 by Timo Perschke and is based in Kiel. In 2018 the Munich-based investment company "Spin Capital" bought shares and Stefan Mohr became second managing director.
THE INITIAL PROBLEM
Many people love nature and like to spend time outdoors, but wear clothes whose production and materials are not environmentally friendly. An awareness of this contradiction must first be raised and promoted through offers.
THE MOTTO
Not only be well protected in all weather conditions, but also have a clear conscience about the environment and health.
THE IDEA
To produce high-quality, functional outwear that is made of 100 percent recycled materials and can be reused in a closed cycle.
THE BENEFITS
An environmentally friendly alternative to GoreTex through the development of multi-functional fabrics (laminate), no use of down (160 million tons are produced annually), materials can be easily separated during the recycling process through single-variety planning, all materials are certified.
THE HISTORY
In 2008, outdoor freak Timo Perschke goes in search of an innovative material for ski jackets, discovers a new, waterproof laminate that is recyclable and founds a production company because nobody believes him that such things can be sold.
THE AWARD
2013 PYUA receives the German Ecodesign Award in the category Product. The jury's reasoning: “Consistently environmentally conscious and intelligent product development, most notably in the fluorocarbon-free fittings, the use of recycled fibres and the recyclability, including a take-back system. Style-conscious, functionally mature, strong colours and with cult status for connoisseurs. The makers know their product and their production chain, and the end result is credible and innovative ecodesign. Respect!”
A FEW NUMBERS
12 employees, started in 2008 with 400 women's and 400 men's jackets, meanwhile 14,000 products are sold annually in eight countries. The operators claim to achieve 83 percent energy reduction and 77 percent CO2 reduction compared to conventionally produced outdoor clothing.
THE FUTURE
The plan is to expand the sales territory and to continuously develop it into a year-round brand for outdoor, sport and lifestyle.